What is Nishijin-ori?
Nishijin-ori is a type of silk fabric woven in the northwestern part of Kyoto City, specifically in the Nishijin area, which covers parts of Kamigyo and Kita wards. The name “Nishijin” comes from this geographical area, and the fabric produced by the weavers in Nishijin is called Nishijin-ori.
The history of Nishijin-ori dates back to the Kofun period, with the name originating during the Muromachi period after the "Onin War" that took place in Kyoto. While the weaving process may vary slightly depending on the weaver, the fabric is currently classified into 12 distinct types under legal standards.
One of the distinguishing features of Nishijin-ori is its development of a wide variety of weaving techniques, such as "sha" (sheer fabric) and "ra" (open weave), as well as the double-layered "futsu" structure. The fabric is also yarn-dyed, which makes it more durable and less prone to wrinkling compared to the common post-dyeing methods.
Products made from Nishijin-ori include finely woven "Tsumugi" (a type of silk fabric), "Honsibo" (crêpe-like fabric often referred to as "Omeshi"), and "Futsu" (a fabric capable of displaying different colors and patterns on both sides). The designs range from simple to ornate, offering a variety of aesthetic options.
Both the terms "Nishijin" and "Nishijin-ori" are registered trademarks, ensuring the preservation of its traditional craftsmanship.